L'ÀNIMA DEL VI (El Born)

Stage right as you enter there’s a decent rendition of Picasso’s Guernica framed by a line of empty bottles standing to attention. Though the meaning of the arrangement is elusive, the tone is set. This is a serious wine bar, uncompromising in its insistence on quality and unwavering in its commitment to good wine.

Evocatively named L’Ànima del Vi or “The Soul of Wine”, this hidden little corner of the trendy Born neighbourhood is a temple dedicated to the natural wine movement. Crafted using wild yeasts, limited additives, and minimal intervention in the winery, in recent years these wines have shaken off their “unwashed hippy winemaker” image and gained a strong international following amongst wine lovers and professionals.

Admittedly unless you’re a fan of natural wines, the collection of mostly French bottles lining the walls and the war zone may seem intimidating. Don’t let that put you off. Like any passionate evangelist owner Benoît is more than happy to help customers find a bottle to suit their palates. This eccentric and floppy-haired Frenchman even has a handy laser to point out bottles on the loftier shelves.

There’s a strong selection by the glass as well. Benoît poured us a local Cabernet Franc which smelled wonderfully earthy and complex. Our second glass, a Catalan Garnacha-Carineña blend, was a little more challenging. Quite frankly it reminded me of the moment when you fall off your paddleboard and a rush of cold, salty seawater enters your nose. In a good way, I mean.

As for appeasing the stomach, I’d recommend sampling the sensational pate and the best cheeses I’ve eaten beyond French borders. In Barcelona terms portions are on the small side and prices a little high, but this is no house red and bravas joint. This is nourishment for the soul.

#ElBorn