LA VOLÀTIL (Sant Antoni)

Some people say they smell feral, funky or even just plain stinky. Yet despite vague definitions, odd flavours and lack of public awareness, natural wines are gaining a modest foothold in the vineyards of Catalunya. Spearheading the conversion of Barcelona’s drinkers are spaces like Sant Antoni’s La Volàtil where the focus is minimal intervention wines accompanied by well-trained staff with a knack for gently stretching guests’ palates.

Named for the unpredictability that accompanies wines crafted using wild yeasts and limited or no additives, La Volàtil started life in July 2015 from the union of siblings Victor and Susana Company. Extensive travel and tasting has honed an impressive list of some 180 wines drawn from producers in France, Spain and further afield who share their philosophy.

Take a seat at the intimate green-tiled bar and trust the staff to pick out one of the tempting bottles that decorate the walls of the airy, modern bar space. There’s also a regularly changing selection of natural wines by the glass which usually offers three reds, three whites and some bubbly.

Since wine is the real star of this show, the food menu is designed to complement rather than dominate the evening. On offer is a simple and well-executed array of tapas mostly inspired by local cuisine. Highlights include a fine Catalan cheese board, hearty traditional bean stews and a fun take on patatas bravas.

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