QUIMET Y QUIMET (Poble Sec)

A true grande dame, the legendary Quimet I Quimet wine bar first opened its doors in 1914. Originally the site was a shop which sold wine produced by the current owner’s great-grandfather. He’d made the wine in a village not far from Montserrat and cart it to the city to slake the thirst of the Poble Sec neighbourhood.

Like many old businesses in the city, the bar has been in the hands of the same family since day one. They’re now down to the fourth generation; today the bar is owned by Joaquim Perez or “Quim” as he’s known locally. He’s the first “Quimet”. The second “Quimet” is the original owner, Quim’s winemaker great-grandfather. Presumably any future male heirs must also be named Quim or they’ll have to repaint the shop sign and redo all those laminated menus…

These days the bar is famed all over town for its delicious gourmet tapas but their foodie reputation has humble roots. The original Quim started offering freebie nibbles like olives and anchovies to encourage punters to buy his wine. Over time the food offerings became more elaborate and the family began offering a wide selection of wines and spirits to accompany their tapas.

Visiting Quimet I Quimet can be daunting the first time, so here’s my pro tips to help you get the most out of the experience:

1. Arrive early, preferably BEFORE they even open

Quimet I Quimet gets irritatingly busy during the summer months, so if you plan to visit then make sure you arrive at 12 noon or 7pm when they open up. This is the time most locals visit, so you’ll also be getting a more authentic experience. During the week many neighbours (myself included!) drop by for a quick glass of wine or vermouth and a snack before lunch at home or at a nearby restaurant.

2. Grab your spot quick

As soon as you arrive grab any space that’s free. This tiny, crowded bar is standing room only, so if you want somewhere to put down your drink and tapas you’ll have to get proactive. There are a couple of little tables, a metal bar top at the back of the room and the bar where food and drinks are served.

To really get in on the action, stand at the bar itself and watch Quim and his team work their magic. As orders are called in their fingers dance across the delicious ingredients displayed behind the bar, creating their famed mouthfuls of marvelousness before your very eyes.

3. Don’t be shy!

Given how busy it gets, it can be challenging to figure out how to order. Your best bet is to make eye contact with Quim and shout out what you’d like over the crowd. Quim speaks decent English so there’s no need to fret about pronouncing baby scallops in Spanish (“zamburiñas”).

Once you’ve put in your order you can stand back and relax. They’ll bring your order over when it’s ready or you can collect it from the bar. You’ll pay at the end when you’re done consuming.

4. Truffled Honey & Marron Glacé

It would be a sin to visit Quimet I Quimet and not try a couple of their “montaditos”. Literally meaning “mounted” in Spanish, they consist of a baguette-like bread base topped with incredible local ingredients. My favourite has to be smoked salmon, Greek yoghurt and truffled honey paired up with a glass of Cava to cut through the richness of the fish.

Next on my list is the slightly sweet Torta del Casar which combines a soft, pungent sheep’s cheese with a couple of divine marron glacé (sugared chestnuts). Wash this down with a glass of sherry and you’re on your way to nirvana.

Feeling a bit more adventurous? Well, there’s always the sea urchin, served with anchovies and pickled vegetables, or the foie gras with volcanic salt. Or the oyster with red pepper and the unpronounceable baby scallops with caviar. Whatever you choose you’ll be onto a winner. All the montaditos are prepared fresh at the bar using the finest quality Spanish ingredients.

If you’re a group of two or more it’s well worth choosing a bottle from the shelves which line the shop. There’s a tiny €4 corkage fee and you can always take the bottle home if you don’t finish it.

If you’re just after a quick drink or you want to pair your wine to each montadito, they also have wine by the glass. Either ask Quim to recommend something or pick from the dozen or so bottles behind the bar marked “Vinos a Copas/Glasses of Wines”. (We’re here for the food, remember, not the grammar.) There’s everything from Cavas and sherry to hefty reds and dessert wine.

5. Pick up a bottle for later

As you’d expect from a bar that started life as a wine shop, Quimet I Quimet’s bottles can all be bought to take home with you. You’ll find wines from all over the world and a strong offering of Catalan and Spanish wines at great prices. Why not challenge yourself with a terrace-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon rosé grown in Penedés just outside of Barcelona or a minerally Garnatxa Blanca from the D.O. Terra Alta wine region near Tarragona.

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